Ayza Ahwa!

Ahwa, cafe, coffeehouse . . . call them what you want. They are a ubiquitous part of living in Egypt. There are coffee shops in every neighborhood, rich or poor, and they come in every ilk. Some coffee shops are classy. There is a small cafe called "Crave" which features international dishes. It's decor is silhouetted, stereotypes of people from all over the world. Then, there are themed cafes, like my regular hangout, Dunes. The rich oranges and browns of the furniture and floor cushions are meant to invoke the vibrant colors of the desert and Bedouin life. (Appropriately, the tag line of the cafe is "We serve atmosphere"). Another type of coffee shop is what I deem the "everyday one." This is a coffee shop like "One Hour for Your Heart" (this is the English translation) in Medinet Nasr. It has a lot of T.V.'s, which are usually blaring, and old men who sit around smoking sheesha while they play Towla (Egyptian backgammon).

Lest I forget, there is, of course, the traditional ahwa. They are usually small and have only a few tables and chairs, a T.V., and their regular customers as fixtures. I have only been in one ahwa, but I have seen many in my travels around Egypt. The one I went to was a dingy room in an alleyway off the bazaar in Luxor. It was a single room with tile floors and a T.V. built into the corner. It didn't have a view. All that you could see was a small shop across the alley that had a variety of cheap goods. The population of the ahwa was exclusively men (with the exception of me and my friend). A boy brought my companions and I tea on a wet tray from somewhere else. The sugar, as is always the case here, was clumpy from wet spoons being dug into it. The football announcer on T.V. was excitedly rabitting away in Arabic. I was simultaneously wary and yet enthralled that my adventures had led me to such an authentic place. But I've digressed.

The reason that coffee shops are everywhere is that they fulfill a basic need in a society that is so relationally based. They are places to get news, watch football, discuss politics (but never will you hear the president mentioned by name), and have a good laugh with friends. Newly engaged couples go to them to be together in a socially acceptable environment. Students go there to study and businessman seek a place outside of work where they can work some more. In short coffee shops which are everywhere, are some of the best places in town!