The Man Who Slayed the Dragon

It took my breath away, literally - not in that the wind-was-knocked-out-of-you kind of way. Rather I felt awestruck by it. It was an immense stain glass window that took up the entire balcony at the back of Saint Michael's Church. The afternoon sun was streaming in littering the floor with illuminated patches of pink, green, and blue from the peacocks (a symbol of Christ). The window was arch-shaped with a cross in the middle and it colors so vivid that they seemed a touch surreal. It was humongous.

Every available surface in Saint Michael's church was a feast for the eyes. From the ornate wood carvings of the nativity and crucifixion on the underside of the balcony to the rich paintings of saints to the red velvet pews, the church conveyed a sense of sacred space and Otherness that I have rarely felt anywhere else. Though there were stunning paintings of saints, it was clear from the hundreds of crosses, the crucifix above the podium, and the massive painting of Christ at the end of the nave (?) that Christ was the object of worship there.

Being in that church reminds me of one of my favorite places in all of Cairo, Mar Girgis or Coptic Cairo. It is a small section of town surrounded by an old wall that forms the heart of the Coptic Community (Copts are orthodox Christians). Copts come here to get orthodox crosses tattooed on their wrists or to pray to the saints. Once a year, they hold a festival here to honor Saint George (see below). There are several old churches and a synagogue in Coptic Cairo, not to mention a "Christian" cemetery, connected by narrow alleyways. Each building here has its own distinct ambiance. Nonetheless, all of them are resplendent, dimly-lit works of art, built with reverence. Some of them are no longer used for regular worship services, but a few are.

While not my favorite one, the church that leaves the most unique impression is the Church of Saint George. A huge relief of Saint George on his horse slaying a dragon greets visitors as they make their way up the church steps. Entering the dome building, one is dwarfed by the immense interior. The huge chandlier and domed ceiling draws the eye upwards. Most of the room is cordoned off, but the feeling of just how big a space it really is remains. In this sanctuary candles are lit and pictures of saints are kissed. The light is low and somehow the atmosphere feels ancient and mysterious. And the idea of connecting with a Being who is otherworldly here doesn't seem so difficult . . .